Life with Liv

Wrapping up our summer holidays, Ben and I have just returned from our first African country – Tanzania! Over the course of 11 days, we explored some of the most iconic wildlife and wilderness parks in northern Tanzania before heading to the bluest water I’ve ever seen on the nearby island of Zanzibar. This experience was really amazing, kicking off with the thrill of safari and ending with relaxing in the sun with nothing to do but swim and enjoy island life.

Preparation for our adventure

I can confidently say that I have never done so much research, preparation, and shopping for a trip as I did for this one! During my research, I learned that Tanzania is four times larger than Great Britain, seven times larger than England, or a little larger than Texas. Other things I knew were that we’d be close to equator, Swahili is the national language but English is widely spoken, and that they have a female president!

One of the first steps was finding a travel company that I trusted along with an itinerary that covered all that we wanted to see. There are sooo many different companies. I knew that I wanted to explore the Serengeti. I also wanted to visit Tarangire National Park, Ngorongoro Crater, and add on Zanzibar. I used SafariBookings.com to compare itineraries and pricing, and decided to book through Brilliant Safaris.

Next up was booking the flights, applying for our visas, and purchasing travel insurance. Then we were advised to visit a travel & vaccine clinic. Here, we received our mandatory Yellow Fever Vaccine. We also received a safety briefing about all the things we could and couldn’t eat. Additionally, we learned how to protect ourselves against malaria. I’m not going to lie, the visit to the doctor scared me a bit. Malaria is a real concern. We diligently started our malaria pills a day before departure. We have to continue taking them for seven days after returning home. Everywhere we stayed, we had to sleep under mosquito nets!

We also picked up some pretty serious bug spray and hydration packets incase we got sick. While it’s not the most glamorous aspect of travel, it’s necessary. When in Tanzania, we had to avoid tap water, ice cubes, and raw vegetables to prevent any unwelcome stomach issues. Only cooked vegetables and thoroughly washed fruits made it to our plates.

And then came the shopping & packing….packing for this adventure was an exercise in minimalism. There were sooo many things we had to think of – For example, due to the bag restrictions on domestic flights in Tanzania, we each could only bring 1 small backpack and 1 small duffle. This meant we had to be strategic! You are only allowed to bring one small plastic baggy of liquids through the Brussels airport security. So, sunscreen, bug spray, and a few essentials took precedence. The preferred currency in Tanzania for tourists is USD, so we had to be sure to visit the bank last time we were home.

And then the OUTFITS! Anyone who knows me, knows I was very excited for this part. We were advised to wear neutral colors during the safari – white picks up dust, black is too hot for the sun, blue attracts the tsetse flies, and bright colors distract the animals. So we headed to the adventure store to get some staples – safari hats, and anything olive/tan/khaki/gray. The four main things to remember when packing for a safari is comfort, layering, versatility, and neutral colors. 

The journey begins

With all our bags packed, we headed to the Brussels airport. We had a 5 hour layover in Ethiopia, then landed at Kilimanjaro airport 17 hours later (door to door). Upon arrival, we were met by a representative from our safari company as we exited the airport. I have to admit, seeing our names on a sign of a driver always makes me feel fancy LOL. We headed 2 hours from Kilimanjaro airport to Arusha. We went to meet at the safari office to get an overview of our schedule. I didn’t even realize that we’d be driving on the other side of the road.

We were then taken to Gran Melia in Arusha, and it was here that we began to appreciate the true meaning of Tanzanian hospitality. Upon our arrival we were handed hot, lemon-scented towels and hibiscus tea. This grand hotel has consistently been voted the best hotel in Arusha for many years. It was super nice to spend the afternoon poolside and eat dinner on the rooftop. We honestly could’ve used one more night at this beautiful hotel.

Safari day 1! Tarangire National Park

We started bright and early with a long drive to Tarangire National Park the next morning. Tarangire NP is often referred to as the “home of the elephants.” As we entered the park, the excitement immediately began and I was struck by the sheer number of elephants, soooo many of them accompanied by their babies!!!

The safari vehicle roofs come off, so you get to stand up in the vehicle while searching for animals. It seemed that every where I looked, there was wildlife. On our first game drive, we found zebras, wildebeest, monkeys, ostriches, antelopes, baboons, giraffes, and even a few hard ones to find like leopards, female lions, and a python. 

Aside from the animals, we were mesmerized by the landscape of Tarangire – dotted with ancient baobab trees, with their massive trunks. We even got to have a hot meal underneath the trees, overlooking a small creek filled with elephants.

After our first full day on safari, we headed through the mountainous range to Acacia Farm Lodge, where we were greeted by 12 singing staff members, hot rags with soap to wash off the dust, and with fresh juice—an unforgettable welcome. We had our own housekeeper and butler assigned to us, and were spoiled to the max! 

The never-ending Serengeti

Next, we made our way to the Serengeti, one of Africa’s most iconic national parks.

This is the main attraction that brings most people to Tanzania. We spent safari days 2 & 3 here…and only covered a fraction. The Serengeti NP is 5,700 square miles—larger than the state of Connecticut!!! It’s home to an incredible variety of wildlife, including 75% of all lions in Africa. We were fortunate to witness lions in their element, including the “Kings of the Jungle” male lions. We saw many up close, some with flowing manes, and others younger males.

One of my favorite moments from our time spent in the Serengeti was when we spotted a cheetah in a hunting stance. It was such an amazing moment because we were the only vehicle around. Our driver spotted the cheetah, and drove over quietly. At first, we only saw the mother. I took out my camera and as I put it up to my face to take the picture, the baby appeared.

Absolutely magical! Usually female cheetahs have 4-5 babies, but our guide suspected that this was the only baby to survive. This is pretty common when the cheetahs cannot find enough food to feed themselves and their cubs. 

Another thing that made this trip so great was our guide, Joshua.

His knowledge of the park and its inhabitants was unparalleled. Over the course of our time in the Serengeti, we drove 10-12 hours a day, scouring the landscape for wildlife.

Our time was spent in the North and Central areas. Some people spend weeks here without seeing a leopard, but on our third day, we had the incredible luck of spotting five in a single day.

Joshua’s expertise and connections meant we were always in the right place at the right time—like when we patiently waited to see a black rhino and her baby in the Ngorongoro Crater, an experience that still leaves us in awe.

Other animals we saw here were antelopes (1 baby that had been birthed hours if not minutes ago), hippos (#1 killer of people in Africa), elephants (smallest baby elephants I’ve ever seen), giraffes, ostriches, warfhogs, hyenas, leopards, dik diks, crocodiles, lizards, eagles, buffalo (#2 killer of people in Africa), zebras, flamingos, impalas, endless birds, and more. 

We enjoyed another wonderful lunch here under the trees. It’s incredible how there are moments when safari vehicles are all around, and then other times, it feels like we’re the only ones for miles.

Sleeping in the Serengeti

One of the highlights of our entire experience (and most terrifying things we’ve ever done) was staying at Nyumbani Collection. Nyumbani is the Swahili word for “home,” and is a luxury camp in the Serengeti. 

This intimate camp, with a maximum of 25 guests, offered an unparalleled sense of immersion in the wild. Upon arrival, we had to sign a consent form about how we agreed the camp is not liable for any wildlife attacks or poisonous bites. We LITERALLY had to have a member of the Maasai tribe escort us while carrying a spear to and from our tent every time we wanted to leave it, to ensure our safety amongst this wildlife. Naturally, there were 10 tents and we were in tent #10, the furthest walk away.

The main concern they stated was lions and hippos. So each time we walked to/from our tent my heart rate was probably 39874937 beats per minute. We spent two nights, and not only did we wake up to the sound of lions roaring, but on the second morning we found a buffalo grazing just 30 feet away on our walk to breakfast.

I tried to remain calm, but Ben said I have never squeezed his hand harder. The camp also was a really unique experience for us because each night we had to sleep with pouches of warm water just to keep warm.

There’s also reliance on a generator for electricity which meant limited amenities, but that only added to the charm— for example you could only blow-dry your hair between 5-7 pm. We also had amazing meals here each morning and evening. So even though I had my “I didn’t think we were going to make it” moment, I still would do it all over again. Definitely the coolest most unique stay we’ve ever had.  

Ngorongoro Crater: A world within a world

Our fourth and last day on safari was spent in the Ngorongoro Crater, one of the seven natural wonders of Africa and the largest unbroken caldera in the world. It is home to the highest concentration of animals in Africa. Here, we saw our first black rhino, completing our quest to see the “Big Five.” A few hours later we also found a different rhino with her baby.

The crater’s unique geography and abundant resources make it a haven for wildlife, including elephants that come here towards the end of their lives, earning it the nickname “elephant graveyard.”

Ngorongoro is not just about wildlife; it’s also a place filled with history. The first human skull and stone tool were discovered here, and the Maasai people have lived in this region for generations, surviving in conditions that are as harsh as they are beautiful. We had an amazing hot lunch outside, and everyone sitting in the hot sun was looking at us underneath our canopy.

We returned back to Acacia Farm Lounge for one night, where Ben surprised me with a romantic private dinner.

For our last meal before we headed off the mainland, the staff set up a private lunch by the pool for us.

Really impeccable. I seriously felt like we were on our honeymoon!

Ending in Zanzibar

After the intensity of our safari, we were really looking forward to unwinding in Zanzibar. We have had so many amazing trips together, but there is nothing like relaxing on a beach. This small island of the east coast of the mainland is a hotspot right now, especially for Europeans during the summer holidays. 

It was a crazy travel day to say the least- we arrived at a very small outdoor airport (if you can even call it that). We received boarding passes with incorrect names on them at first, then the second round had my last name spelt incorrectly but they told me not to worry about it…the security measures were less than efficient and we had a long delay because the president of Zanzibar required the runway. After landing, we had the worlds most chaotic 2 hour drive to our resort. I was happy to have arrived, and looking forward to spending five days and four nights on this beautiful island, at one hotel instead of the constant moving around each night.

I make it a point to be honest about my experiences (highlighting the good and the bad), so I must mention that I wouldn’t recommend visiting Zanzibar until the beaches are better managed, if that ever happens. The primary draw for many visitors, including us, is the stunning blue water. We stayed at Hotel Z, but we found it challenging to enjoy the beach due to constant attention from locals trying to sell various services and goods. From the moment we walked from our beach chairs to the water, we were approached with offers to braid our hair (which I eventually gave in to), provide massages, rent jetskis, sell coconuts, and more. Even while swimming, the interruptions persisted. Additionally, the beach is adjacent to a public access point, leading to a lot of activity with boats and horseback riders, which made it difficult to relax and enjoy the sea.The island also experiences frequent power outages, anywhere from 1 to 10 times a day, which adds to the unpredictability of the experience. It felt like a bit of an Instagram versus reality moment.

Despite these challenges, we made the best of our time and enjoyed a fantastic trip, mainly relaxing by the pool with a beautiful view of the beach.

Our hotel breakfast each morning had the most amazing view of the exact image of a beach you want to see —soft white sand, crystal-clear waters, and the gentle sound of waves crashing on the shore. I loveddddd having my coffee here.

The staff here were also very kind hard working people. I think I heard the term “Hakuna Matata” one hundred times while we were there! We went for a walk on the beach each morning to see the star fish, went to happy hour on the rooftop each evening, and soaked up as MUCH sunshine as we could because we don’t often see the sun in Brussels.

We went on one excursion to go swimming with the dolphins and snorkeling. This was QUITE the experience, which Ben refers to as our boat ride from hell. This is where Ben had his “I don’t think we’re going to make it” moment. It started off really crazy because 9 of us boarded a very small boat with a little canopy.

We braced some pretty high waves until we approached an area with at least 30 other little boats zooming around. “Swimming with the dolphins” was taken very literally – when we jumped into the middle of the Indian Ocean when we would see dolphins. Here were the instructions received:

“When I say jump, you jump”

*30 seconds later*

“JUMP”

It was so crazy and an adrenaline rush. For someone who is TERRIFIED of sharks, I cannot believe I jumped in the middle of the ocean. But my love for dolphins outweighed my fears I suppose. I jumped on three separate occasions and Ben jumped once. I really can’t wait to see the GoPro footage of this LOL.

Then we continued about 30 more minutes to a snorkeling area and sand bar. The water was SO clear!

After our excursion, we spent the final two days unwinding—we enjoyed a couples massage, relaxed by the pool, and truly savored the quality time together.

Reflecting on the Reality of Tanzania

Agriculture is the country’s number one source of income, with tourism following closely behind. Everywhere we went, the warmth and hospitality of the people were evident. The staff at our accommodations knew us by name, and we were constantly asked for feedback—proof of the country’s dedication to making every visitor feel welcomed and valued.

While our experience was luxurious, it’s important to acknowledge that Tanzania is a developing country. We drove through many cities where people live in modest huts or brick structures, herding cattle, and relying on agriculture and spices for medicine. The contrast between our experience and the daily lives of the locals was striking and humbling. It served as a reminder of the many layers of travel—how it can open your eyes to the beauty of the world, but also to the challenges that many people face. I have to admit that I felt a little guilty driving through these towns and going through a secured gate to find myself at a 4/5 star resort. 

In Summary

If you’re considering a safari, it’s important to account for the time spent in the vehicle and the road conditions. While some travelers choose to fly directly in and out of the Serengeti, which is a costly option, be prepared for long drives on challenging roads. During my safari, I found it necessary to take anti-nausea medication each day to manage the travel.

We booked a private safari, and I highly recommend it. The experience was tailored to our preferences, allowing us to customize our schedule and activities. Although it is a more expensive option, the ability to personalize the safari was invaluable. For instance, one day we spent an hour and fifteen minutes observing a herd of elephants as we waited for them to cross. This level of flexibility really made the safari experience.

I also want to address a common misconception Americans have about Africa. It’s important to remember that Africa is a diverse continent made up of 54 countries, so it’s more accurate to refer to specific countries rather than generalizing about the entire continent. Many Americans—and even some Europeans—perceive Africa as predominantly impoverished and dangerous. Before my trip, I received numerous warnings to be cautious, avoid wearing branded clothing, and leave my jewelry at home. While it’s always wise to be mindful of your valuables wherever you travel, I found that most of our time was spent with our guide or at secure hotel properties. During our evenings in Zanzibar, we ventured out three times and only encountered friendly locals. While there were beggars and some signs of poverty, similar situations can be seen in many cities, including Brussels. I have to tell you that the only time I felt in danger was with the Buffalo encounter and the boat ride – neither of which had anything to do with the people!

As I sit here once again writing about yet another incredible experience, I’m filled with awe. I can’t believe the life I get to live and that I get to do it all with Ben. I had always envisioned going on safari maybe in retirement, but I’m so glad we didn’t wait. This adventure has been truly unforgettable. Ben and I had an amazing time—searching for wildlife, “camping” in the Serengeti, immersing ourselves in the local culture, and sampling an array of new foods. Here, food is a profound expression of love; the more you eat, the more you embrace their hospitality. Traveling abroad has pushed me to try sooo many new things, and food is just one of them.

If you’re ever considering looking for an experience that will leave you changed, look no further than Tanzania. I’d be happy to answer anyone’s questions more in depth about our experience and booking a safari! Also PLS be prepared for me to make this my entire personality – we are talking safari themed (FUTURE) nursery, my FUTURE child’s 1st birthday party theme, everything.

Thanks for reading ❤