Winter Adventures in Lapland

Now that our time on this side of the world is winding down, I knew I had to be strategic with the last few trips we could squeeze in. My dad also wanted to visit one more time, so I turned to my bucket list to see what he would enjoy. One word immediately jumped out as the perfect destination for his January visit: Lapland.

Lapland is a region that spans across Finland, Sweden, Norway and Russia and is famous for chasing the Northern Lights (Aurora) and all things winter. There are many areas to explore, but Brussels’ south airport conveniently adds a seasonal flight to Rovaniemi (Finland) from December through February. Rovaniemi is the capital of Lapland, home to the official Santa Claus Village, and lies at 66 degrees north latitude.

Once the flights were booked, the first order of business was figuring out how to properly handle the cold. Every time I mentioned to European friends or colleagues that we were heading to Lapland, they strongly advised dressing as warmly as possible, warning that it would be the coldest place I’d ever been. What’s funny is that they seemed to forget I’m from Chicago—I grew up in freezing winter climates!

Nonetheless, packing for this trip was a full operation. Thankfully, I have a Finnish friend in Brussels who lent me proper boots, wool socks, gloves, and other essentials. We also bought two sets of thermal undergarments with heating technology. While plenty of people looked effortlessly stylish, I prioritized warmth. Each day, I bundled up in snow pants and three layers of clothes. Still, I had to add a little flair—so I found some fun hats and oversized earmuffs to keep a touch of winter fashion.

Our adventure began with a frigid -22°C (-7.6°F) welcome. First stop: Santa Claus Village. Naturally, we gave in to the classic tourist trap of taking a photo with Santa – we decided that we will tell our future children that we were invited by Santa himself because of our good behavior.  

Here we also visited the official Santa Claus Post Office. After every trip, we send postcards to our parents (and sometimes friends and other family), so it was a special experience to write them from this festive setting. You can choose to have your postcard mailed the next day or held until just before Christmas! (Though with European post, those two options might as well be the same.)

Then we crossed the official Arctic Circle, got to feed and pet reindeer, and stumbled upon a cozy teepee with a crackling fire, so we sat inside to warm up. Ben ran to buy some hot dogs, and we roasted them over the fire—a simple but perfect moment in such a remote corner of the world with two of my favorite people.

Later that evening, I unintentionally doubled down on my reindeer experience—this time on my plate (sorry, Rudolph).

I always make it a point to try a traditional meal on my first night in a new country, and Arctic Restaurant did not disappoint. The town we stayed in was tiny, almost more of a village, but our Airbnb was perfectly located just minutes from the center.

Over six days, we successfully visited every coffee shop, souvenir store, and restaurant in town. One of my biggest shocks was the high prices—at one café, two cappuccinos and two muffins cost 24.50 euros, while in Brussels, the same would cost maybe 14 euros. Luckily, we found a more reasonably priced café that became our go-to, its warm cinnamon twists smell drawing us in every time.

Last minute, we decided to rent a car so we could chase the Northern Lights on our own each night. Having a car also gave us the flexibility to explore further. While my dad took a day to rest and recover from jet lag, Ben and I drove through snowy roads to hike at Korouoma Canyon.

As we neared our destination, I started researching the trail and learned that encounters with bears, wolves, and lynxes weren’t uncommon. Fantastic!!! We quickly decided to leave all food in the car—just in case. Upon arrival, we rented ice spikes (a necessity for the slippery terrain and elevation changes). The hike was alongside stunning—frozen waterfalls and pure, untouched snow.

We barely saw another soul in the three hours we were out there, and the remoteness was breathtaking.

We ended our hike at a small cabin, where a sweet elderly Finnish man served us tea and cake. He told us that although he had never left Finland, he had met people from all over the world. We signed the guest book and pinned Chicago on the world map. Finnish people aren’t big on small talk or smiling at strangers, but I managed to get him to give me a smile before we left. I felt like I was in some sort of Hallmark movie!

Other classic winter activities we participated in were snowmobiling and husky sledding—both of which ended up being trip highlights. We were given proper gear and got all bundled up!

Fresh snow had fallen for nearly 12 hours, making the conditions perfect.

The ride started through sparse, lightly snow-dusted trees, but soon we entered a dense forest where even the tallest of trees were completely covered in thick white snow. It was like stepping into a winter wonderland. I took a few pictures and videos, but then put my phone away to soak it all in.

The next day was the moment we had been waiting for—husky sledding!!! I had visited a husky training center in Northern Sweden during the previous summer, so I had learned about their diets, care, and boundless energy. At Apukka Husky Adventure in Rovaniemi, we got to be our own mushers—no guide on our sled!

I took the reins first, and as soon as our five huskies were harnessed, they went wild, barking and lunging forward as if yelling, “Let’s go already!” Our lead dogs were sisters, an alpha male held the middle, and the two back runners were also sisters. Before it was confirmed, Ben and I joked that the back-right husky was definitely female—every time we had to brake for spacing, she threw us the sassiest side-eye.

When it was my turn to be the passenger, I sat on the sled guided by my husband and pulled by these 5 amazing dogs and it was just so surreal.

After years of running around European cities, arriving and leaving exhausted, this trip felt different. Not to sound too “Nature is healing,” but… nature is healing. I was fully present—grateful for this adventure and the company of Ben and my dad.

After the ride, we were able to play and hold the baby huskies! They were 7 months old, and are set to begin the multi-year training process soon!

Aside from excursions, I also cherished our downtime. We played games, read books, and hopped in the car nightly, loaded with snacks and Northern Lights trackers.

We stood by lakes and along deserted roads, surrounded by pitch-black wilderness, the constellations illuminating the sky above us. Though clouds blocked the typical swirling green ribbons of the aurora, we did see faint green lights one night—enough to cross it off the bucket list. (Still, I guess I’ll just have to go to Iceland or something one day to see them properly!)

I am incredibly grateful for my dad’s two week visit. My heart is full after this trip and the time together. I would definitely recommend Lapland to anyone looking for an adventure – but be sure to book far in advance and make reservations for everything!


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