Raise your hand if you can say “I have been to Paris before but didn’t see the Eiffel Tower”. I’ll wait…

Fun fact: Before this trip, both Ben and I could say that we have been to Paris before but didn’t see the Eiffel Tower. At the end of February 2020, Ben and I departed on a trip to Europe to visit my sister who was studying abroad in Italy and my best friend Carly who was an au pair in Germany. Right before we left, the first outbreak of the c-word occurred in Italy, and we rerouted to London. This was unfortunate because we didn’t get to see my sister, but London is one of my favorite cities ever! By the time we made our way to Germany, Trump had announced a travel ban and intense c*vid regulations. So, we cut our trip short…we took a speed train from Germany to Paris, checked into our hotel, took a shower, then headed straight to the airport to fly back to Chicago, all without even seeing the Eiffel Tower!! Long story short, Paris was on our list to get back to.

An anniversary weekend in Paris sounds like a dream, right? Well, where I go, chaos seems to follow. A national strike has been taking place in France after their President forced a bill through parliament without a vote that raised the retirement age from 62 to 64. Workers across the transport, education, fuel and utility sectors have have been striking, leaving the streets filled with piles of garbage and minimal public transport available. Protestors were gathering, rioting, and starting fires. Police were using tear gas, water cannons, and pepper spray. We avoided these areas, walked until our feet bled (literally), but we still had the best time! I do recognize the struggle that that France is facing, and do not ignore my privilege.

How we got there

Originally, we booked a speed train on Thalys to Paris which only takes 1 hour and 20 minutes. However, due to strikes, our train was cancelled. But hey, 1 year ago was the week before my wedding and THAT was complete chaos too (main photographer canceled 3 days before, personalized wedding dress hanger cracked in half, easel for the welcome sign broke in half, my dog got sick, my cousin’s flight was canceled, my hair straightener broke in the middle of getting ready for my rehearsal dinner, the list goes on…) We ended up driving, which only took 3.5 hours. Ben used to make weekend trips to visit me in Michigan during undergrad and that took 3.5 hours…now we can drive 3.5 hours and end up in Paris. A dream!

Where we stayed

The City of Paris is divided into 20 arrondissements, and we stayed in the 15th, just a stones throw away from the Eiffel Tour at Pullman Paris Tour Eiffel. This was definitely a splurge for us! But it was worth every penny. On Saturday morning, we ordered room service and ate on our balcony. I never understood why people ordered room service until we had it included our honeymoon in St.Lucia last year, and now I love it!

Where we dined

JJ Restaurant – This old-school French restaurant in the 8th was delicious. It was a very small, old-school eatery with white table clothes and exposed beams. I had a steak and Ben ordered fish and we split a bottle of red wine.

Seb’on – This rustic-chic restaurant in the 9th only had eight tables, and has two rounds of dinner each night. The chef creates the menu each week depending on what is in-season. French food is quite unique, and not for everyone. I really liked the intimacy and ambience of this place.

Cafe Louise – Cafe de Flore is one of the most famous cafes in Paris, but unfortunately they do not take reservations. Because we had a full agenda, we opted in for breakfast at Cafe Louise, where we had fresh squeezed OJ, croissants, baguettes, and warm drinks. This place was super cute and delicious!

Angelina’s – This is a famous tea room from 1903, known for their hot-chocolate. We waited in line for 45 minutes, but it was definitely worth it! I love going for tea and this was Ben’s first time. If you don’t have time to wait in the long line, you can stop by the hot chocolate cart in front of the restaurant.

Au Petit Tonneau – This upscale bistro had great French onion soup. However, there it is just called onion soup (lol). We came in mid-day and didn’t realize that we were expected to order a starter, entree, and dessert. The owner made it clear to us that he was unhappy, so he certainly didn’t help with the famous stereotype that the French dislike Americans. If you’re French speaking and want to order a starter, entree, and dessert…then this is the place for you!

What we did there

Let me start by saying that I had waaaaay too ambitious of an itinerary. 48 hours in Paris was not enough, so I guess I will have to go back 😉 Here is what we accomplished:

• Visit the Arc de Triomphe
• Walk Av. des Champs-Élysées (famous shops like Louis Vuitton, Laduree)
• Watch the Eiffel Tower at night sparkle at the top of the hour for the first five minutes
• Photoshoot at Pl. du Trocadéro
• Take a Seine Cruise
• At a Crepe near the Eiffel Tower
• Explore the neighborhood of Montmartre & see the Sacré-Cœur
• Parisian Cabaret at Moulin Rouge
• Louvre Museum (saw the Mona Lisa!)
• Put a lock on the Love Lock Bridge (formerly Pont des Arts, now Passerelle Debilly) on our anniversary

Dos & Don’ts

Do: make reservations for dinner and museums

Don’t: go to an upscale French restaurant unless you’re ready to eat at least 3 courses

Do: be super careful of pickpocketing, especially right near the Eiffel Tower and busy areas

Don’t: underestimate how big this city is. There is so much to be seen, and 48 hours was simply not enough!

Do: go to the top of the steps at Place du Trocadero for the best pictures of the Eiffel Tower in the background.

What we didn’t have time for but want to do next time

• Walk through Luxembourg Gardens
• Visit the Pantheon
• More time allotted for the Louvre (the largest museum in the world)
• Visit the Palace of Versailles

Overall, it’s safe to say that I LOVED Paris, and we had an amazing time together celebrating and reminiscing on our first year of marriage.